Author: Laura Burlo

Today is our first day in Moscow and my goodness is it chilly! We arrived late last night to a beautifully lit city covered with snow. After we had a much needed sleep, we started the morning getting straight into our car for a big day out exploring Moscow. Mrs G  had organised a driver to take us to the Gulag museum, only to find it was closed. An hour to get there and the lady comes out to tell us it wont be open until Thursday. We hopped back in the car and went to the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. What a beautiful scene, the silence in such a vast space was mesmerising. Looking up at the ceilings, which where so high. Such incredible architecture! I find it overwhelming how so many people in the world come to these special places to find some sort of peace, hope and faith. Even though I don’t believe in their religion, I have a sense of respect for the people that do. They are all looking to find something greater, to find some sort of fulfilment. I mean I try implementing affirmations to my everyday life, its somewhat similar in a way, Positive thoughts and hopes. At the end of the day, we are all praying and wishing for the greater life.

Allowing Mrs G to pray alone in the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour was very special, seeing her sitting there looking up saying her prayers gave me goose bumps. It was very touching, I cant really describe the feelings I had in there, the peace I felt. (Dont worry dad, I’m still an atheist!)

As we left the Cathedral we were yet again stuck in the wonderful traffic this city has to offer. Julien told me that when he was over here he could drive through the middle of the roads, where the police, ambulances, or any special passengers that have special pass’s can go through quickly to get any where. I was envious! The hours we waited in this traffic was a joke. He sure was lucky knowing Alsou, his childhood special friend.

Finally we arrived to the scenic lookout we had been travelling too, my goodness was it freezing. Quickly we stepped out, had a brief look of the city, took a picture then turned back to jump into the warm car…Only to find out our driver had disappeared! Oh boy, was that an inconvenience. Here we were in the snow shivering our bottoms off wondering where the heck our driver had gone! After a while he finally came running back tucking in his shirt as if he had just been to the loo. Home James, as the old saying goes.. Back to the Ritz we went.

After two hours in traffic we finally arrived back at the hotel. We sat down stairs listening to the pianist whilst enjoying our afternoon tea. It was lovely sitting in such a beautiful room enjoying our tea and cakes.. Until the bill came. I was so shocked! One cup of green tea £19!? I buy mine in whole foods for £3 and think thats pricey.

Anyway, by then it was almost time for the theatre. Quickly we got changed into our finest attire and went to the Bolshoi.

Wow is one word I can say.. I was speechless how grand and Royal looking this place was. Hearing these incredibly talented Russians sing Opera was just magnificent. We had the best seats possible, right at the front. We could see the sweat, their deep inhale and exhale of their breathless chests, the watery sparkle in their eyes from their passion of singing, the connection to one another while singing together. It was spectacular and although we couldn’t understand a word they were saying, we thoroughly enjoyed it.

After having seen such a beautiful performance, G and I jumped in a taxi to get back to the hotel. Heres the thing, the taxi from the hotel to the Bolshoi only cost 500 Rupels,(£6), he was charging 6000 Rupels!!! I hit the roof.. oh was he sneaky though, trying to tell us we should get out before pulling up to the Ritz..

I of course got the staff at the Ritz to see to this mess. They also couldn’t believe how much this man was trying to rip us off. To stop all the commotion I passed over 2000, and he was still going on yelling at us! We got escorted into the hotel with our hearts thumping in such stress and  disbelief, headed up to the 11th floor to the restaurant, only to find we had left Mrs G’s stick behind!!!

Luckily we had such kind staff helping us at the Ritz. One of the bell boys went back to the theatre for us in hope it could be back at our seats, while we enjoyed our Japanese dinner. The sweet boy came back showing us photos of where we were sitting, not having found the stick. Never mind G said, we will find another one tomorrow.

We finished our dinner and went to leave, all the staff where at the door with a box of chocolates and had searched online for a replacement stick that they would get for us. My goodness, the hospitality of the staff here was wonderful.

Heading down to our rooms and saying goodnight to G, I popped into the bath. The phone rings, just while I’m washing the mascara off my eyes, I jump out thinking something bad has happened to G! Oh the happiness in her voice, “They’ve found my stick” Mrs G says. The staff had gone to such effort looking over cctv footage of the taxi, contacted the company and tracked down the driver and got him to bring it back. The staff had brought the stick up to Mrs G with a sweet Ritz tiger teddybear. Over the moon in happiness. The joy in her voice. What a great day!

 

What a way to wake up! SNOW! beautiful white fluffy snow on my balcony and all over the buildings beside the hotel. Today I started of with a big smile on my face seeing this. Firstly we went to Lennard’s tomb. How they have been able to preserve his body is just incredible. It looked like something out of a film, felt like he was about to sit up and turn towards me staring! Spooky. We were literally in and out of his tomb which was a dark dungeon. We strolled around red square in awe of the magnificent fairy castle looking buildings. Snow everywhere! I have to say, seeing pine trees covered in snow was a pleasant site for me. Not having seen real snow since a child I throughly enjoyed it!

We then went to visit bunker 42. Down many many stairs we got to what was an active power room for nuclear weapons and control points. I have to say, It wasn’t easy getting down all the stairs. How well G did, so determined to see it all, she wasn’t going to let any stairs get in her way. So proud of her, even I was struggling on some of the big steps. I learned that bunker 42 was from the days of the cold war. Fascinating to see how easy it was for leaders to send off nuclear bombs by a click of a button. I have attached some pictures of this secret, very cool place.  At the end of Bunker 42 we then carried on our journey to an area where Putin and fellow members of the state go to work, the Kremlin. This area was like a palace, all the jewels and historic treasures are kept here for people to view. Among these special items were Faberge Eggs, carts that Cathrin the great traveled in from the 1700’s and all the Royal attire and gifts from all over the world that leaders would send to the Royal family.

We had a very special dinner that evening, a place called Turandot. A very Royal evening, in such  spectacular surroundings. A beautiful way to end such a beautiful day.

Today we went to the Gulag museum. It was very sad seeing how Stalin treated his people. How one man took away thousands of people that where well educated, many scientists, doctors, lawyers etc, to this prison for unexplained reasons. People would wonder where a member of the family would disappear to. If this man thought you were a threat, he would lock you up in a concentration prison. The power he had. Reminds me of Hitler. 1950 was when this horrific place was found and had been running since post war days. There is so much history in every country I visit. Its just incredible how I am only hearing and learning about it all now. I really have to thank Mrs G. She has educated me more than any school could begin to teach me. Seeing and learning about the history in these countries absolutely fascinates me.

Tonight we met with the group who will be accompanying us on the train ride From Moscow through to Iran, exploring many of the Stan countries in-between. There are some people from Spain that can barely speak english, some South African that reminds me of Lauren, a few Americans, and later on we will be picking up 20 Australians in Uzbekistan! I can assure you, the train wont know whats hit them. The tone sure will lift.

Sadly our group leader has told us tonight we will not be having any internet. I have been in tears to Julien on the phone. Two weeks without hearing his voice! Im very sad hearing this.

The next 2 days we will be traveling to Kazakhstan. Not being able to get off the train. I’m looking forward to sitting reading my books and watching the world go by as we make our journey south.

Today we have been traveling through Russia and have hit Kazakstan. After a full day on board yesterday without any fresh air, I have been looking forward to this evening being able to get off the train and explore our next destination. We handed our passports to the officers who came on board, they stamped my British passport along with the other passengers on board and we followed our onward journey to a town called Eaykonur. The space station!

Oh my was it lovely breathing in the cool air. I have to say, Ive been feeling awfully nauseous over the last two days not having the chance to get off the train.

We jumped on the bus that took us to the space centre about forty minutes away from the train station. Here we saw the space station where every astronought has to come to before heading off into space. Its owned by the Russian federation, their own bit of land in Baikonur, formerly known as Leninsk. Its situated on the right bank of the Syr Darya River and was constructed to service the Baikonur Cosmodrome, which itself was originally constructed by the Soviet Union in the late 1950’s as base of operations for its space programme. This is a place filled with so much history from the launch of Sputnik 1in 1957 and the launch of the first human, Yuri Gagarin, into space in 1961. We went into one of the space ships that had been previously used many years ago, the space ship was refurbished with all the information and history for guests and tourists to experience. Walking around taking plenty of pictures, I couldn’t stop thinking about how much my father would love to be here. Ever since a little girl, my daddy would always have his head in the clouds, talking about space, trying to teach me all about the stars, space ships that have been into space, naming off people I had no idea who were, astronaughts of course, that he was clearly such a fan of.  If only I really listened and took a little more interest. I would have been able to come out with a few facts while we were here. Thats one thing I really kick myself about. Not listening, thinking my friends were way cooler than my family and anything they had to say about history.

After exploring the space grounds viewing  the way the Russians control the space rockets, we got back on board the bus. Traveling fifteen minutes back towards the station, we made another stop. This would be the hotel where the astronaughts stay before flying out into space. We were very lucky there was going to be another launch in just under a week, Thursday the 17th. So we got to briefly see the astronaughts from our side windows, playing with the bullard table and looking like they were having a bit of a laugh before there very serious journey into space. Mrs G was telling me that we are very lucky we got the chance to even tour through such a place. As apparently its not open to the public. I felt very special, feeling that this is such a rare opportunity. Thank you Mr Tim Litteler who owns Golden eagle trains, and Thank you Mrs G for letting me accompany you to this fascinating, special place.

Walking down the path, our leader was telling us that before the astronaughts leave earth they all plant a tree. Its a superstitious thing to do for each person going into space, some were massive trees dating back to 1961 when the first ever astronaught Yuri Gagarin made his journey into outer space. Incredible, what a place to see. Very lucky girl I am, I keep telling myself. I cant wait to tell my father about this when I’m next back in Australia.

Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan.. Its been a long over night journey to get from Kazakhstan to Uzbekistan and a full day on the train. I have been reading the whole day. Slightly off genre of Central Asia, being a heart throbbing romance by Millisa Hill, called  “A gift to remember” but I love it! Running my index finger down the spines of all the books in library on board the train, I found a novel that caught my eye, having a pretty wrapped present covered in love hearts and my favourite pastel blue colour all over, it suited me perfectly. I am already half way through, its quite thick actually, I’m pretty proud of myself not worrying about how many pages there were before starting! Reading It really makes me miss Julien though. Hopefully soon I will be able to somehow get in touch just to say all is well and not to worry about a thing. Considering this trip is a little out of the norm, travelling to all these unwesternised countries, i cant blame him for being concerned. However i’m sure he knows I am in good hands with mrs G.

Getting off this afternoon we were happily greeted by a young Russian lady that spoke excellent English. This time having our own guide and car, we ventured off into the heart of Tashkent. Firstly stopping at a statue of a man and his wife holding their baby in their arms , on the corner of a busy intersection. Oh my was it big, also vey beautiful and touching seeing how all the people came together in the 1966 from a horrific earthquake.The majority of the Soviet-style city was destroyed from this 8’’’ destruction but from determination and the help from the people in the surrounding parts of the country,  they built Tashkent back to civilisation. This statue was built to remember the difficult times from mother nature.

Next stop we explored a very beautiful Mosque that held the worlds oldest

Koran, dating back over 500years. Learning about the religion and soaking up the breathtaking architecture, I had to speak out loud my thoughts, ‘How peaceful this place is, I love seeing these children running around the gardens of the ginormous mosque grounds’ looking around to the pink sky, seeing the sun going to sleep, the children finishing school and getting some play time in before dinner, I felt so happy. It truly reminded me of when I was their age. Coming back to Quambone street where my family home was growing up, running home from school and playing in the gardens with the other children in my neighbourhood. It really made me get that homely’ feeling. It was a perfect late afternoon and I couldn’t feel more at peace.

This evening on board the train Mrs G and I decided to carry on the conversation we were having with some fellow travellers in the bar car.  We have been up until 2am debating about brexit, Trump, hillary and multiple other political issues going on in the world. It was hilarious seeing Mr littler saying goodnight to us then walking the opposite direction to his cabin. He walks back through the bar car looking embarrassed while we were all laughing, him saying “this is my train and I don’t even know what way to go’. A few too many wines I think Mr Littler! We all made a joke to put a sign up for when he walks out of his cabin in the morning, saying ‘Mr Littler, this way’ with two arrows pointing the opposite direction. He sure is going to feel horrible in the morning!

Today was a relaxed and happy day, the morning started with laughter. At our first car stop we encountered a man and his goat. He had a pet goat, well more like a ram tied up to a rope, standing beside him outside his house. This animal loved him, to the extent he would jump up humping  the man whilst teasing him with the rope. The goat would run up and smack him with his head in his groan, I was in hysterics. I could not stop laughing! So glad I got it all on film! Its quite bizarre that I was actually thinking to myself earlier in the morning that we haven’t seen any animals on this trip. I was very much missing my horse this morning, seeing his picture along with Julien’s. The one from the time we went lake como in Italy. I have them placed up beside my bed on the train. Oh how I miss the touch of Achilles’s coat and Julien’s soft hands running down my face.

Back to today, our first stop being the residence of The Emirs of Bukhara- The despotic and ruthless leaders who ruled until Soviet times.

We walked around the grounds of this beautiful and well kept place. Full of bright colours, rooms with silk rugs, pottery and glass cabinets. Very different than what I have ever come across. Outside there was a very talented painter who is well known in the country ….. We managed to make a deal with him for some of his wonderful pieces. Very special indeed, a Silk Road painting I will be bringing home.

Next stop was a small ancient mosque where our guide told us we needed to walk around it three times and make a wish. Its said that this is the place where dreams come true. Unfortunately I really wasn’t paying too much attention on this ancient mosque, as I was worrying about G freezing to death as the wind was so unbelievably cold. Our leader on the train told us that it wouldn’t be very cold today so we didn’t dress very warm. The guide we had today then brought us to another mosque called Borlo. I wont forget this name as it sounds the same as Juliens last name, Burlo. How Julien says it in his beautiful french accent, it sounded identical. I really liked this place as it made me think of him. While we went inside, again being all my favourite colour pastel blue, we sat quietly in the corner listening to the men up front pray. Such a vast space but how calm and relaxed I was just sitting in there.

Lunch was next in a very middle eastern looking area of the old town. I couldn’t help but notice how many brides we have seen today. All looking younger than myself! Some of the ladies where wearing big beautiful white dresses and sparkling tiaras. Our guide said this is a must for the ladies to wear. They must wear this crown/tiara for their wedding day and for forty days after getting married!

Walking past and having a picture with one of the brides, we then went into our restaurant, plenty of food already on the table for us. It was very similar to the Palestinian food we had last month whilst we were in the Middle East. Ive decided its my favourite food. So healthy and fresh!

While we were sitting enjoying our meals, out came a man and his son, wearing the most beautiful velvet dress robes.They sat by us in the middle of the room and started playing their instruments and the older man sung to us.. A few minutes later a mother and daughter came out and  started dancing in their special coloured outfits. So wonderful to see a family coming together to perform with such flow and connection between the four.

After having changed outfits half a dozen times, the girl came up and tried to pull me into the middle to dance with them. The south African lady that was sitting beside me went into the middle and we tried to copy her dance moves. Non stop laughter again!

Finally it was time to make our journey back to the train, such a wonderful lunch. I can’t forget to mention how all the men came to help us out the restaurant. They lifted Mrs G in her chair and carried the Queen outside! What a great picture! G in pure happiness, with smiles running one ear to the other, it was a fantastic lunch! Whilst we were walking to get back to the car we stopped in a market to find a fabric shop where the men and woman buy their traditional wedding attire. The family owned business were so kind, they showed us around their shop with big smiles on there faces. Having not being able to speak any english they pulled out a traditional dress from the glass cupboard. Dressing me up with a crown on my head, I had to get a picture! I find the people here have been so kind hearted and opened arms for us everyday.

Now we will be making our journey to Turkmenistan, where some of the passengers must leave the train, having been denied visas! Apparently Turkmenistan is ridiculously strict and this couple being journalists before they retired, have been denied entry. They will be flying to Istanbul then meeting us in Iran. I wonder how we will be going through the boarders. Our leader says it could take half a day talking to passport control as they will be searching everything and throughly checking passports. The next two days will be on the train. Having finished my book, I think its time of me to go check out the library on board again 🙂

Wow! What a strange City, being the capital of Turkmenistan I was very surprised that they have made it so Bizarre looking. I honestly felt as if I was on a different planet and I’m not exaggerating! You would have thought this is where the Russians would have wanted to rent the land for their Space station! What a strange place and even more bizarre, there are no people! Considering there’s five to five and a half million Turkmen citizens, it was very odd not seeing the people of this country in their capital city! Vast spaces with extraordinary designs such as a space rocket in the middle of a round about, a building for medicine built as a needle, a book shaped building for economics and what I thoroughly loved seeing…a building with laser lights of moving horse’s for the Association of Turkmenistan horses! Its known as the ‘Las Vegas of the Kara Kum’. Situated between the Kara Kum desert and the Kopet Dag mountain range, Ashgabat is a modern city built on the ruins of the Silk Road city of Konjikala and the Soviet city built after the devastating earthquake of 1948.

What else I was surprised about was our guide explaining to us that they have a whole day off for ‘mellon’s’! Seeing as this country has over two thousand different kinds of mellon’s, the country takes a whole day off work to share the day eating the vast rang of mellon’s with their family and friends. I didn’t believe our guide at first but after asking the other guides, its true!!! Another bizarre thing I saw was when someone has a new born they dress their cars up with big teddy bears, ribbons and some sort of bright paint to celebrate. This goes on for three days to celebrate the child coming into the world.

Here in Turkmenistan there are 24 different tribes based in the dessert, having picked 5 of their best tribes designs, you can now see their favourite and most famous on the green flag of Turkmenistan.

Driving along, stopping at some of these extravagant fountains, golden domes and towering modern buildings of this desert setting. Our heads were tilted like dogs that don’t quite understand what their owner is telling them, we sure were speechless!

Instead of going with the rest of the crowd, Mrs G and I went to have dinner on our own. It was at the best hotel they have in the city, being the Sofitel. Fifteen floors up, we wanted to get a view of the city at night. Of course we were the only ones dining. A pianist all to ourselves, we reflected on the day. Starting from five a clock, before reaching Ashgabat, we went to a place called Darbaza. We drove 10 km off road to the ‘creator’ that was lit in the Soviet union days. In 1957 it was lit with the assumption that it would deteriorate and disappear. Well its been 59 years burning now, bringing many people from all over the world to see yet another bizarre site in Turkmenistan.

Today we went to a place called Mary where the ancient city of the unrestored remains of Merv still lay. Once an important stopping point on the Silk Road, it claims to have briefly been the largest city in the world during the 12th century.

1794 saw the demise of Merv, after the Emir of Bukhara destroyed the dam which the population depended on for its water.

Sadly it was raining so majority of the remains we viewed by the car, but my was it impressive. Imagining how they lived back then, so many hundreds of years ago. How they would have had to probably walk half a mile to their dam to collect water, farm fruits, vegetables and kill animals for food. I bet it wouldn’t have been easy! Having access to tap water, or being able to open a fridge full of food to eat when I feel hungry.. Thinking how lucky we are having real roofs over our heads and the amazing power to heat up rooms from the magic of electricity. To think how they lived, makes me so grateful for what I have today.

Seeing these ruins we drove back 40 minutes to our train and enjoyed some tasty food. Really appreciating every mouthful now, I finished with a satisfied smile on my face. Shortly after we came to the passport control station of Turkmenistan and where they had to change over bogies (the wheels for our train) we waited and waited and waited. Almost 8 hours went by while the engineers changed the required bogies. Being the first train coming from Russia into Iran they were unsure of how long it would take. Apparently all the tracks in Iran are completely different to the ones in central Asia, Russia and Europe.

Mrs G and I sat reading, nibbling on snacks, being entertained from the three Turkmenistan guides I couldn’t help but want to just get back on the train and sleep. Finally Mr Littler the owner of Golden Eagle came in and apologised profusely about the massive delay. He told us it was a success and finally we are up and running again.

By this time it was late being almost midnight but there was no sleeping allowed as the Iranian boarders were under 2km away. Little did we know what a kerfuffle that was. The passport control officers, finger print machine men and ladies with questions we had to answer.. What a long day. I have to admit though, I really enjoyed covering myself with the long dress and head scarf. I couldn’t stop thinking about the times Julien has said to me in the past that I should be in a burkr, so other men wont ever look at me! Im sure he will be reassured knowing in this country its mandatory.

Looking out my window there was an unexpected row of media waiting to greet us. Unfortunately being so late and behind schedule we couldn’t disembark and had to keep making our way to the first stop in Iran being Mashhad. Oh how I am looking forward to waking up in the morning an embracing a new country.

Waking up to ladies dressed in black from head to toe and men kept warm with scarfs and jackets, I couldn’t believe we made it to Iran. A place I feel I’m sort of forbidden to travel to. About a year ago I told my father Mrs G has found this incredible trip, taking us to untouched places rare for westerners. We would be venturing through central Asia and Iran, he completely hit the roof. To understate, my father is over protective, no way was his little girl going to places he hadn’t been to and only read bad things about! I felt so horrible telling G I couldn’t come with her last year, I completely ruined her dream to visit Iran.

Well as time went on, the old saying goes ‘time will tell’. Golden Eagle happened to cancel their first trip on the route, there wasn’t enough people to join the trip. So time went by and about 10 months later an add came into the Financial Times. Mrs G brought it up to me and after having a serious think about what the consequences would be if my father was to find out, I told Mrs G I would accompany her! Sorry dad, as I’ve said since being a little girl “I want to see as much of the world as I can before I die”. He knows deep down I’m in safe hands. At the end of the day life is about adventures and experiences and I do believe travel is the best education anyone can have!

Back to today, we left our train to find ourselves right in the middle of a religious day called Arbeain. There were thousands of people on the street chanting and banging drums, waving flags and all covered in black. It was quite an introduction to Iran! We of course also had to be covered completely and our tour guide escorted us into the Holy area where everyone were praying. Thousands and thousands of people where at this Holy site.

I found myself constantly fixing my hijab up and almost tripping over my dress every two steps! How do these ladies dress like this everyday!? Must be so irritating. Then there was the challenge of going to the lavatory, that is merely a hole in the ground!!! I really felt dirty after using the bathroom, feeling like my dress kept brushing on the floor. To my amazement there was no toilet paper, thankfully I had some tissues in my pocket!

After venturing out into the city of Mashhad and enjoying a local meal by the station, we made our way back to the train. Being 3pm and only having half an hour until we leave, Mrs G and I went to the bar cart to see if there was any internet. Luckily I got to speak to Julien, the joy in his voice when he answered! It really is true the heart grows fonder with time apart. Talking for three quarts of an hour I then realised the train hadn’t moved yet.

Hours we sat at the station of Mashhad wondering whats going on, could the officials be holding us? Dinner time arrived and all the passengers came into the dinning cart, nobody had a clue why we were still sitting at the station. Then comes in Mr Littler looking like he had been near tears and apologising on the microphone that we hadn’t moved anywhere. The boggies (wheels) that got transferred last last night has caused serious damage to the carts and that the government officials have sent a letter saying we are not allowed to move anywhere until further notice. Mr Littler says with a saddened tone that he and the team had been up all last night in distress due to damage sustained. They received a letter saying the other option would be for an Iranian train to come and collect us to finish off the last week touring Iran. Here is the thing, the train doesn’t have private bathrooms per passenger room like The Golden Eagle. That we have to share one toilet per ten cabins! Oh boy was that a fright to hear. Well for Mrs G and I especially.. Could you imagine ten cabins, some two passengers per cabin, sharing one toilet that only has a hand washer!? Well I guess we all signed up for an adventure! I wonder how this will work.. Tomorrow afternoon we will be boarding our new Iranian train to head south, Yazd will be our next destination.