Author: Laura Burlo

This morning we woke up at Mashad station, waiting for the all clear to board the Iranin train. Mrs G and I ventured out away from the group to an amazing restaurant G had found in a book. Walking down into the entrance it was as if we were entering a museum, so many antiques, old radio’s, beautiful historic paintings, rugs galore and beautiful wooden furniture that looked ancient itself. We were greeted with big smiles whom were welcoming us into the restaurant, they seated us by a water fountain in the middle of the room. The elderly man spoke good english and explained the history of the restaurant, how his grandfather gave it to his father and father giving it to him. Showing us signatures of famous people back in the day that use to dine there and explaining that a section of the restaurant was only for Shar and guests. It was incredible, we wanted to stay there all day. They were so friendly and wanted to know more about us. We were given rose tea which I absolutely adored, drinking four cups of it, I could have just had that for lunch! The man brought out a traditional Iranian meal that consists of, lamb, potato, turmeric, cinnamon, chickpeas, kidney beans and garlic in a soup. The left overs got mashed up into a dip with the delicious thin pitta bread that we demolished. Ending with a home made sweet I’m unsure of it was all very tasty. We really enjoyed seeing this hidden museum restaurant!

Saying goodbye and writing something thoughtful in the guest book, we made our way back to the train. Just in time for departure, we were greeted on board by our cabin attendant and photographers. They were all handing us roses and offering us a non alcoholic drink. Another warm welcome!

All our luggage had been transferred on board the new train and we left the station to head towards Yazd. Now for the first night testing out the one lavatory per 16 passengers situation! Good luck to us!

Wow today has been very adventurous! Starting with a fire temple called Zoroastrian, which has been burning for over 1500 years by a priest. At the front of the temple there is a symbol, the symbol that dates back to thousands of years ago. It is made up of six parts, head, hands, wings, central circle,  feathered tail and hanging cully threads.

1- Head)The figure inside is that of an old man representing wisdom of old age.

This reminds us the Farvahar elderly can be a better guide and that we should consult experienced and wise people.

2-Hands) One of the hands points upwards, telling us that we should always be in only one direction (lf Ahura Mazda). The other hand holds a small ring, the ring of promise. This shows respect for promise. In today’s world, we see it in the form of wedding rings signifying the promise between two humans.

3-Wings) The wings are spread apart signifying the ascent of the soul or upward progress of human. Each wing is in three major segments, representing Good Thoughts, Good Words, and Good Deeds. This suggests progress through the triple principles.

4-Central Circle) A circle is a line that has no beginning and no end. The central circle in the Farvahar symbolises the cycle of life and the eternity of the universe. It tells us that the result of men’s actions return to him in this world. In the other world the soul of the righteous one will enjoy the reward, on the other hand the soul of the wicked one will fact the punishment (darkness and sadness).

5- Feathered Tail) It represents the opposite of the wings namely, Bad Thoughts, Bad Words, and Bad Deeds. It indicates the fact that we should always drop bad choices down and avoid them.

6- Hanging Curly Threads) Good Mind, Evil and Angry Mind.

When people passed away here in Yazd the priests would carry the dead bodies up a mountain to place called Silan towers.13000 feet above sea level right in the heart of the desert, they would leave the dead bodies for the vulcher’s. They would not bury human bodies because the people didn’t know what the disease or any infection causing the death, would do to the earth. Only 60 years ago they stopped this tradition that started a millennium ago.

After visiting the fire temple we went to visit the old town. Walking down dirt roads, we came to view a beautiful mosque. It was completely silent, the only voice we could hear was our guide echoing in the vast blue coloured dome. Whilst we walked through the silent town we were told the people living here build their homes from mud , sticks and clay. Some doors would have a knocker for woman and man, others would only have one handle for only a woman to enter. I loved seeing this, it was like taking a step back to the stone aged days!

We came towards the end of the town where our driver was waiting for us, when a family walked passed and saw us. They were all smiles and wanted to get photos with G and I. The mother spoke english and kept asking questions, she really wanting to befriend me. We exchanged email’s and had a brief chat about our countries. I felt so fortunate to have met her and her family.

Before lunch we went to where the people would carry out the ritual of the deceased bodies. Looking how far they had to carry the bodies, way up on the top of a mountain, I was surprised seeing what an effort they would have to go through. Incredible how strong religious beliefs can be.

After seeing this site we went to eat some lunch before making a quick stop to the beautiful Dowlat Abad Gardens. So many colours, pomegranate trees, fountains and beautiful birds. I could have stayed here for hours! If only I had a good book with me to read within these surroundings, that would be bliss!

Saying goodbye to beautiful Yaz we boarded out train to Isfahan. Thankfully they have put us up in a hotel tonight, 17th century  Abbasis hotel. Wow I am speechless, what a scene, this stunning palace looking hotel has so much character. I am starting to feel like an Iranian princess! Just looking at there website is magnificent. I am starting to think that the train breaking down was a blessing in disguise as we would have never got to see this historic beauty! http://www.abbasihotel.ir/en

Im sure excited to sleep in my non moving bed tonight! 

Today has been the best day so far, waking up to birds chirping in the garden outside my bedroom balcony. Looking out onto the court yard garden, enjoying my fruit and coffee for breakfast, I really felt excited for hat this beautiful day might bring. What a lovely way to start the day seeing nature at its best. We met our guide down in the lobby and headed out into the stunning city. Driving past beautiful bridges, lots of trees arching the roads, sun beaming, we ventured our way to a place called Naghshe Jahan Square. I had seen this place on documentaries but seeing it in real life was breathtaking. In 1598, when Shah Abbas decided to move the capital of his empire from the north-western city of Qazvin to the central city of Isfahan, he initiated what would become one of the greatest programmes in Persian history. The complete remaking of the city.

As we were walking around the square we came across school girls with their cameras, all wanting to take photos with us. They were giggling and amazed by our blue eyes. Standing in the sunshine, getting wonderful positivity from the people. We listened to our guide explain to us what the shah would do in this square, I visioned times back then. Trading treasures, watching the polo horses play in the centre, the woman dressed in elegant dresses with beautiful hijab’s. All the Gold outlined on the surrounding buildings, this place is a must to see. Im so happy I got to come to this unusual historic site.

We were very lucky to have Bahman as our guide, he knows a lot of people here including the incredibly talented man Mr Mostafa Fotovat. We had the pleasure of meeting him in person at his office by Nagshe Jahan Square. Walking into his “museum” we were greeted with big smiles, sitting down at his desk it was so wonderful seeing how much Mrs G appreciated his work.

We spoke about how he does the paintings, with one cats hair on a pigeons feather. It was fascinating seeing how he made such work with so fine of a brush. While we were sitting at his desk, he pulled out what he usually paints on which is camels bone and made a miniature man for Mrs G and a horse head for myself. Mr Fotovat did this in front of us in just 3 minutes. It looked like a photograph. Explaining to us how his grandfather started painting and how the talent has carried on generation to generation, with Mr Fotovat’s grandson now also starting to paint. We spent hours in his beautiful office filled with all his work. Mrs G came out with two magical pieces that will be cherished forever. So special they are, the detail that goes into them, it takes years to do just a single piece. I couldn’t believe my eyes being given one of Mr Fotovats pieces as a gift, a girl in blue looking so elegant in a garden, I was lost for words when handed this to me.

Being in this country honestly feels as if we are royals, how everyone are so hospitable, kind and open. I feel very lucky and honoured to have come here.

Saying goodbye to this lovely man, I sat in the car while we were on our way to the Armenian quarter for lunch. Looking out the window, I felt overwhelmed with happiness. The beauty in people, giving and wanting to know us, it really made me feel blessed and so grateful.

We were taken to a lovely part of the town for lunch, catching the sun while we ate yet another delicious meal. Always starting with a soup, being barley this time following eggplant salad, dips and pitta bread. Being so full already, the next part of the lunch came out. Assortments of meat and fish with their tasty herb rice, we were again treated like stars.

Off to the carpet shop we went after enjoying our Iranian food. We sat in the surroundings of many beautiful carpets being given coffee and cake whilst watching the men pulling out all the silk carpets. If only they were a quarter of the cost I would happily buy one, but understandably because of the years it takes to make, they were all well into the tens of thousands and I just couldn’t afford such a good. Our guide happily bought one though, being $30,000! This was no surprise as he bought three pieces from our special painter friend at the last stop. Buying for his wife, parents, and daughter for christmas, well into the thousands for the one painting. He explained he wasn’t actually a guide, Mrs G called him our Jeannie. The government pairs him up with vip and us being with Golden Eagle, we were one on the list. He also explained his family to us. We sure felt lucky we were in such good hands.

Just when we thought the day was coming to an end, we were taken to another spectacular garden and temple. Beautiful artwork inside with plenty of gold surroundings, a gigantic pond with fountains, and immaculate green grass and tropical trees. This was yet another place I could have spent hours in. I walked around feeling as light as a feather, being 4pm and the sun going down it took me back to my childhood once again. I truly loved this place. I would fly back just for this moment again.

Stopping by one of the four bridges called Si o Seh Pol Bridge, we got out and walked across whilst being told that it was built for Shah’s wife. There were two covered outlooks in the middle of the bridge, one facing to see the sun as it rose, and the opposite side viewing the sun going to sleep in the evening. This was another charm of the day, so romantic. If only Julien could have been beside me I would have wrapped my arms around his neck and looked him in the eyes with such love and compassion. Dreaming of us skipping and dancing along this bridge in sheer happiness. One day I will come back here and we will share this beautiful romance together.  Just the thought gives me butterflies. Walking into our 17th century hotel, seeing all the happy faces, we couldn’t have asked for a better day. Usually I cant appreciate the day until weeks later, having to think back over it, but today has been different. Today I end in such appreciation for the incredible experience we have had. Today has to be one of the nicest days of my life, and I feel it. How happy I am to be here with such a beautiful person that appreciates all the little things I do and feels the exact same way. Peace and happiness, a little treasure of a day.

Following an early breakfast on board the train we stopped at Sadat Shaha, the home of Persepolis. Another world heritage site. Perhaps Iran’s most important archaeological site, this capital of the Persian Empire dates back to the 6th century.. Sadly it was freezing cold and a tad of rain so Mrs G insisted she stay in the book shop, while I went to explore this incredible site and take pictures to show G. Running up the many many stairs and around the site, stopping to get a picture of the most beautifully preserved remains of what use to be a thriving city. Bahman our guide laughed saying he had never shown anyone this place quicker! I just didn’t like the fact G was in the bookshop on her own, as much as G will insist she is okay, I still worry not being there. I did manage to get many beautiful photos and learnt a snippet of the history in 10 minutes! It was fun though, running around like a mad lady stopping for two seconds to take pictures. Great exercise!

Running back down to G in the shop I was breathless, but what a smile on her face.. So happy to be talking to the Persian people. Finally she has had a chance to make friends with the locals.. We had been talking about the downfall of being guided around site seeing when all we wanted to do was meet locals. Even though the language barrier can be a little tricky at times, their always willing to try make some sort of conversation.

Off to Shiraz we go, about forty five minutes in the car my tummy started to go! No stopping, I felt so nauseous and couldn’t wait to get out of the car! Lunch was probably the quickest yet, dashing in and out we were taken to a lovely hotel to freshen up. Thank goodness, finally I could have a private bathroom! So nauseous by this point I was so sick! I felt like I had eaten something bad. Luckily we had these rooms for three hours, I managed to have a nice bath and a snooze. Walking down stairs, G was already in the lobby and had been for the whole time. She insisted I stay an extra few hours to get myself better, while she and our guide went about town.

We made our way back to the train that was waiting for us at Shiraz station, I completely collapsed on my bed in the train. Dr Suzie came to see if I was okay and took my blood pressure ext. 80 over 54 which is extremely low. She gave me some electrolights and told me to drink up plenty of water. Then from 7.30pm until 9am the next day I slept! Slept on the uncomfortable tiny bedded Iranian train! I must have been sick I said to myself, sleeping all that time!

Oh my what a greeting! Arriving at Tehran train station we were greeted with flashing cameras, red carpet rolled out, waiters dressed smart with their white gloves on and hundreds of smiling people standing to see us. As we walked down towards the vip room, given so many red and white roses by the locals with a tag saying ‘I love you”. It was such a beautiful warm welcome!

Being escorted through the vip room, with more cameras taking pictures, we were offered tea and cakes. Then ushered out the back entrance into our next drivers car. Traveling through the streets of down town Tehran, our guide was explaining to us that this was the not the nicest of areas. He explained he is going to take us to see the chic places of up town and where he lives, before having some lunch.

Mrs G and I were so happy, our guide really knew it all. He took us up the mountain and guess what! I saw snow! Lots and lots of snow! We stopped at an art museum on top of the hill and as soon as we pulled up I had to have a play in the white fluffy snow. Throwing it up in the air, how wonderful this was for me being back in snow!

Entering the museum we spent about an hour in the shop before seeing any paintings..Last minute presents! The generosity yet again, getting coffee and cake. When we walked into one of the rooms a family stopped to ask if for pictures of G and I. We sure felt special in Iran 🙂

On our way back down the hill, Bahman insisted we meet his wife and daughter not far from where we were. I couldn’t explain how welcoming they were, offering us an unlimited supply of tea, sweets and fruit.  They proceed to show us paintings Camillea, Bahmans wife had done. My was she talented, and elegant, and so incredibly happy. Not to forget their lovely daughter Rojan, who sweetly played the piano for us. Such a flow she had with her hands, only being 15 she really knew how to play. They even offered us their bedrooms, thinking maybe we wouldn’t want to stay at the hotel and be in a more comfortable environment. Its just such an eye opener how generous Persians are. We as westerners could never live up to how kind this family has been to us. What a picture the media plant in our heads of Iran not being safe to visit. Its just fascinating how the image they perceive is just a mirage.

Well today I woke up to a dozen missed calls from Julien, my mother and about 5 messages telling me to get in touch asap. Julien in London and Mum in Australia, the news must have gone world wide of a train crash in the south of Tehran! They were calling to make sure it wasn’t our train! Thankfully we had nothing to do with the crash but my goodness, how frightening that would have been hearing that news and knowing Mrs G and I are in Tehran!

After letting them know all is well and we are safe, G and I were greeted by our guide. Off we went to our first destination for the day being The Golestan Palace. With its renovated Versailles-inspired mirror-encrusted Marble Throne Hall used for the coronation of the last Shah, most of the remaining brick and tile buildings date back to the 19th century Qajar dynasty.

While we were in the car our guide Bahman told us something quite surprising! Apparently we are very lucky to be alive! When the Turkmenistan authority’s changed the wheels of our train entering Iran, they apparently did a bad job non accidentally. There’s big meetings at the moment about Turkmenistan plotting this. Apparently they called Iranian authorities four hours after we left Turkmen asking if the train made made it. When Iranian officials came to look at the horrible job of the wheel change, they opened up a case because of how poorly it was done. Everyone was very surprised that we made it to where we had. Iranian officials had said if the train was to go even 2miles further it would have been fatal. My heart was racing hearing this. You see, the guide we have had here in Iran had been working with the government. He was the one who made it all okay legally to cross into Iran from Turkmenistan for us westerners. What a shock!

As we carried on through the day onward to our next stop being a very hip restaurant. Walking through the door from the busy street, it was like we were entering a somewhat sort of a nightclub. Very dark with red lights, pictures of well known stars framed all around the high ceilinged room. Our driver, guide, Mrs G and I all sat looking around the room. We enjoyed their delicious meal served to us on big american style plates.. food food food, we ate so much at lunch! Its all just too yummy to leave! Grilled mezze. Perfecto.

After filling up our tummy’s, we made our way to the next destination to the crown Jewel’s. Underneath an Iranian bank we went through many security points and searches to be able to enter this extraordinary place. Wow! What a place to see.. It was like being in Tiffany’s times a thousand! Diamond necklaces, rings, crowns, walking sticks and even a diamond globe! Just one little diamond please! G and I were speechless walking through this beautiful sparkling room.

One more stop before heading back to our hotel. This was certainly a highlight for Mrs G. Entering a calligraphy gallery we were greeted with an artist himself. Showing G our guide and I around the room, explaining some of the art that was all in Iranian. The man took a card and drew a special piece especially for Mrs G. He must know a lover of art like G when he sees one. How happy she was being given such a special gift.

We ended the day with smiles having been dropped back at the hotel.

Tomorrow will be a quiet day, to get ourselves organised. We face reality back in London a few days from now. Our lovely guide has been so kind to invite us to lunch with his family, before we make our way home. The people here really go out of their way. I am so surprised how much hospitality they have been giving us!

Our last day before heading home to London. I have to say, this trip really has been something extraordinary. How much we have done in each day in almost three weeks, it almost seems made up. Traveling through central Asia and into Iran, on a train! And not just any train, but the Golden Eagle the worlds best train. Staying at the Ritz, seeing Royal jewels, visiting the only space station on the planet, learning how the ever so expensive silk carpets are made, visiting “the door to hell”, trying traditional food in each country and the surprise of how welcoming Iranian people really are! Just being able to experience all this with a lady that has a heart of gold, how she see’s and appreciates all the little things. How lucky am I to have had the opportunity to experience yet again another educational experience. We start this day again with smiles being picked up at the lobby by Bahman, his wife Camelia and sweet daughter Rozhn in there 4×4 family car. A tour around Terhan. Stopping at the top of the main mountain called Mount Tochal. Over looking the city, with my favourite fluffy white snow all over! Being shown where all the mega wealthy Persians live and being told a little history of the city we then drove past the American Embassy. With graffiti plastered all over the fences, skulls and nasty writing, There was no stopping here! Eventually hitting the all famous Tehran traffic, we were stuck trying to make our way back into the chic part of Tehran for lunch.  As we finally made it to the building for lunch, we could tell this was going to be quite the restaurant. Up to the 12th floor we went and over looked some of the mountain. Seeing all of the sunny city covered with snow. We all sat at our table while  Bahman spoke in Farsi to the waiter. Before we knew it, there was mass’s of food on the table. It really was nice being in a breathtaking restaurant, enjoying yet again more tasty food. We were with such a kind happy family that really made us feel right at home. Bahman was sitting at the head of the table and pulled our a little box, handing it to G. It was a necklace and matching Opal earrings. Mrs G couldn’t believe it. Such a smile, thanking him with watery eyes. Bahman then passed me over a small box too!! As I opened the box, here I found a torques necklace. I was speechless! This man who has guided us around Iran has not only given us the best possible experience one could have showing us his country, but gone out of his way completely. Taking Mrs G and I into his home to meet his family while they showed us their incredible talents in painting , playing the piano and now spoiling us with gifts! Dining with us at such a fine restaurant and just being themselves, the kind, caring and welcoming people they are. G and I keep saying how lucky we are. So so lucky!  We didn’t want to say goodbye to this special family. Exchanging emails and personal details while we now sat at the hotel lobby. Bahman, G and I were finding it hard to say farewell.

An end to another life chapter, one I will certainly never forget. Now as the old saying goes “Home James, don’t spare the horse’s”

https://youtu.be/V8G1uA7MxUU

September 2016. Israel/Palestine. Our Palestinian guide- Husam Jubran & Israeli guide Yuval Ben-Ami, from the National Geographic. Wow, what an adventure!  I feel the need to express how thankful and happy I (and I think I can speak on behalf of Mrs G) are for having them with us on this trip. So privileged we were to have had such intelligent, down to earth people Educating us about this incredibly complex place called Israel/Palestine.

I was very apprehensive of this trip at first, and was quite unsure what to expect. Now writing this, after having experienced what I have, I can now say how happy I am that I did come on this eye opening experience.

Never have I seen such a broken, complicated country, but at the same time have such beauty. I guess in the Western world we don’t hear half the things that are actually going on in Husam and Yuval’s country. People really need to see this place to believe it.

Husam Jubran serves as a Representative in Palestine and Jordan for the Middle East/North Afica Social Innovators Program and is based in Palestine. He has a Master degree from Eastern Mennonite University in Conflict transformation & Peacebuilding, and a Diploma in Turism. Mr Jurban works also as an interfaith tour guide in the Holy Land and provides trainings in Conflict Management, Crisis Management, and Nonviolence. More about Husam – www.emu.edu/crossroads/spring2005/palestinian.html

Yuval Ben-Ami is an Author, journalist, traveler and cultural critic writes for the Hebrew edition of National Geographic magazine and has published a monthly column in the Hebrew edition of National Geographic Traveler . Born in Jerusalem, Yuval later moved to the United States and began writing for Israeli and international newspapers and magazines, among them Haaretz, the Boston Globe, and Yedioth Aharonot .His books include Susanna, Don’t you cry- a travelogue of the American South—Finnish Mythology, the novel I’ll meet you Halfway, and two travel books about Israel: Wonderland and A day on the Town. He also hosts a radio show and is a founder of the web magazine +972. Yuval’s work in conflict resolution began in 2000 at Jerusalem’s Youth Center of World Cultures, where he introduced Jewish high school students to Palestinian culture and narrative. He has since mediated, lectured, and trained in a number of forums, and appeared as guest speaker in numerous universities in Israel and abroad. Since 2007, he has also led cultural travel experiences, bringing individuals into areas they would not normally visit: Israelis into Hebron, Palestinians to Tel-Aviv, secular Jews to Meah Shearim, and so on, creating unique encounters.

Thank you Husam and Yuval, for such an Educational, marvellous trip!

Im not sure where I start with this… What a first day!

We arrived into Tel Aviv last last night and had a decent amount of sleep ready to explore a part of Jerusalem not many westerners go to.

After meeting Helousia, the lady that began this trip for us and Mrs G’s dear family friend, we ventured out to a place called  Me’a She’arim. We had to dress from head to toe to be covered in this neighbourhood and still they looked at us like we were aliens.

This day was a Friday and all the Orthodox Jews were getting ready for Sebat. Its from Friday to Saturday they feast and have a religious day. It was incredible hearing how this religion works. I have attached a clip from our guide talking in-depth on the way these people live. They live in there own world and are in disbelief of the rest of the world.

They really just keep to themselves and their religion.

Our guide was telling us the woman is the main income earner by working in schools and nursery’s, the caring industry. while the men stay at home and study. Study and never work. Its a way of getting out of paying Tax’s. Which  irritates other Israeli’s.

While we were walking around ,the men would look over then quickly look away. Its apparently stated in their Bible and even on signs around Me’a She’arim that if a man looks at a woman and he is married he goes to hell and the wife gets punished; she gets punished because she enticed the men to look at the other female. I found it hard to believe until I showed the picture of the sign to one of the workers at the American Colony where we were staying.

Everyone was heading home getting ready for Shebat when we went to Me’a She’arim. Here are some pictures and a video of our guide explaining the religion.

This place was very derelict. These Orthodox jews living back in time and not moving on with the rest of the world. I couldn’t help but respect them, how they still have such a thriving way of living. completely sticking to their own beliefs and  only socialising within themselves.

This religion was very strange to me. You may understand a little more by listening to this man speak about the religion.

Today has been incredible to say the least.

We started off going to the Wailing Wall. I wrote up a prayer before we got there and put it in the wall beside all the other woman silently praying. The men and woman are sectioned off from each other. These people were Orthodox Jews and they are only allowed in their sectioned areas.

We went through security to get to the Muslim area of the wailing wall. While we were going through security there was a Jewish group. They had to be escorted by security and police as they are are not welcome on this Muslim side. As soon as they came through the gates all the Palestinians started chanting at them. It really was a disgrace they came to this side. It was very hard to comprehend why they would even want to go to the Muslim side. Some people said to provoke the Palestinians. The Jewish leaders want to turn the Muslim side into another synagogue for the Israeli’s. this is one big conflict that is happening now. Already the Jewish people have 3 of their own.

We met with a Palestinian Iman who greeted us. He talked to us about how the Israeli’s are trying to push the Palestinians off their land. Just yesterday 4 Palestinians teenagers were shot dead, the Israeli military said they had knives ready to attack them. The Iman said the military kill these people then put knives on the Palestinians. Like they were set up. Just because they can he kept saying.

They do what ever they want to Palestinians but when the Palestinians try to fight back, homes and families get taken out and killed by the Israeli military.

Some of the words this man was saying (I have it all on tape by the way) it made me cry, I seriously felt helpless that we cannot do anything. The only way to make peace the man said, was to sit down with the Israeli government and for it to be resolved between the two. But this cannot happen because America is so heavily involved. They are the biggest problem, giving Israel weapons.

The government keeps putting more and more settlements into the Palestinian’s land. It is all very complicated.

After hearing this we kept going on to the church where Jesus was resurrected and followed the journey from start to finish of where he was nailed to the cross and taken to. Seeing all the Israel flags hung upon the roofs of the old town Jerusalem streets absolutely killed me. Underneath are the remanding Palestinian arabs that have fought to keep there part in Jerusalem. How the government have put these Jewish settlements there, I cannot understand. Trash is thrown down onto the old town streets from these settlers. They have cages sectioning them in with Israeli military protecting them. (Its like a community ontop of a community that do not like each other) I can understand why there is so much violence and conflict between the Arabs and Jews.

Here we have Muslims, Israeli Jews , Orthodox Jews, Zionist Jews, Ethiopian Jews, and Christians all sharing Jerusalem, the wall and the holy area of where I have just been today. I could feel the tension between everyone. All believing their own faiths and religions, disregarding their neighbours.

At lunch there was another peace talker, this man was an Israeli Zionest Jew. He seemed lost on what direction Israel is going to take, with all the mess that is going on right now he knows something needs to happen, but again it’s complicated. He kept saying it’s like a relationship , we have our ups and downs, this country used to get along well and now is going through such a difficult time, that it needs to get back to how it use to be. For everyone to walk beside each other. Although no one knows how this is meant to happen. How can such peace be made with so much tension and conflict?

Tonight we have listened to the Christian peace maker. I felt horrible, I couldn’t bare listening to him. Maybe he was talking sense in whats happening with the Christian religion but i just couldn’t keep myself focused listening to him, I kept drifting away from his speech. Have you ever listened to someone speak that have the same tone the whole way through with no enthusiasm or personality? It was like listening to a flat line in a hospital. No heart beat. Personally I’m not very interested anyway in the Christian side to these religions. I think half of it is false and made up.

Finishing today I now understand so much more about why Isis is and why people have been acting the way they have. It’s been so much to take in today. It’s all such a big debate, and in a few days we will be talking about Syria and the war there. It’s funny because listening to everything today.. America has such a massive say in everything that is going on today. They are the ones provoking all this mess. And now with a new leader coming up in November. Each peace maker is actually horrified by who the people have to vote for.

Can you Imagine if Trump wins!? This world will get a lot madder than it already is, but then Clinton is no good either! Today has been very overwhelming and such an eyeopener to what’s going on in Palestine, Israel and the world.

One of the pictures attached with the Jewish settlements really took me. This is one of many Jewish settlements living on top of Muslim residents in the old town Jerusalem. They are heavily guarded by the Israeli military. How much i am kicking myself right now by not taking more pictures of all the junk they throw down onto the alleyways of the remaining arab residents and shop keepers of this area.

Wailing Wall

Muslum side

Jewish ladies praying by the Wailing Wall

This picture really took me. This is one of many Jewish settlements living on top of Muslim residents in the old town Jerusalem. They are heavily guarded by the Israeli military. How much i am kicking myself right now by not taking more pictures of all the junk they throw down onto the alleyways of the remaining Arab residents and shop keepers of this area.

one of the paths Jesus was carried before he was crucified.

Where Jesus was crucified

Jesus Tomb

Orthodox Jew’s mourning by the Mount of Olives